Cold Cold Ground

This desolate cemetery is outside Rio nell’Elba, on the island where Napoleon lived out his exile. I remember Rio from many, many years ago as very poor and somewhat bleak and unfriendly—very different in atmosphere from Portoferraio, the lively little capital city of the island. Things have looked up for Rio in the years since my visit. The village now has its own Web site and apparently has a good tourist business judging from the hotels and restaurants listed.

Photograph by Passante.